Right! We're outa here. Delhi to Melbourne.

We have made it....Business Class!  But a bit of advice to the beginners in the audience...there are easier ways of getting a Business Class seat on an Air Inda 787 Dreamliner.   The qualification period for us was somewhat rigorous, and we would happily forgo hob nobing with the elite.

It is nice though.    Fourteen seperate buttons to control the seat.  Seats into beds.  Fancy socks.    

Air India have 18 Business class seats, the rest for the common folk,and no first class, so being in the front row of the business class is really as First Class as we'll ever get.

What this does mean is that Nathalie is very close to the loo, and she can sleep with her foot raised.

No gin squash....just orange juice.  And those seats have a back massager  button too.

Wheelchair to the door of the plane, and the walking frame the rest of the way.....not easy but the altnative (stretcher) would have taken several more days to organise.....and be at the mercy of that evil empire( the insurers) for a few more days...naaaahhhh, not likely.  The boss cocky of the cabin, let Nathalie keep her foot up during the take off, which was real hand, because the most pain is when the foot is down....

That's. Us...

Hey, in business class, they don't serve all the meal on the one tray, at the same time.....and the hand towels are cold!!!    As long as we kept Nathalie's proactive pain relief up....things worked out pretty well....but with changing time zones had to use my counting side of the brain, to work out whence twice, thrice, once, and once after meals should be given.  just as well I know a nurse.

Bollywood film.  Yes again.'Highway'  2014 film relating to a soon to be married daughter of a rich Delhi family, who witnesses an armed robbery and murder is abducted by the robbers and falls in love with the robber ......absolutely awesome scenery, of many parts of India...stop it, it's creating itchy feet.  But it is a kidnap, murders, etc and her I predicted that it would be the first Bollywood film I've seen with no dancing...until 1:15, yep the star gets an English cd, puts it in the very expensive cd plat in the ancient Tata truck, jumps out and sings and dances....what's  that about?

Got back to Melbourne and for once, there was no ranting,  raving, threatening or stress as everything went well to the transit lounge  in Sydney ..cool, except for the security incident relating to the catheter bag in Andrew's backpack at transit lounge security ...but the least said about that the better.  Then back in the plane to Melbourne.

Ambulance and family waiting for us...it wasn't the one with lights flashing on the Tarmac..would have been too embarrassing, and how would have we picked up the duty free. Our ambulance was sedately parked outside, to reception at Knox, with a big thank you to Peter and Lisa, for making that happen...the hospital was actually were expecting us .  We got here.   More surgery debridement and skin grafts....at least a week in hospital.  Apparently Saturday and Sunday mornings are not good times to arrive.  The line ( that we were wheeled to the front of) was enormous, even for the locals. 

Turns out that our customs dog Linton, while we were away had a detached patella....they operated and then he damaged a ligament, so he needs six weeks of close confinement rest as well.  Out in sympathy with Nathalie, but he will be doing that out at the Kennel.

Linton...the one on top

India summation in the next and final blog....

East-West Medical Clinic, B28 Greater Kailish, Part 1, New Delhi- Day Six and seven

Have made it as far as the Air India Business class lounge...which we never intend to do again..for too posh,

Absolutely no thanks to the insurers, and aft much and constant harassment and very expensive and inconvenient phone calls ( considering the maximum top up of 300 rupees) , and the fact that it costs even to receive the calls, the insurer managed to work out

1. We had tickets

2. That we were noted as special needs/ wheel chair assistance

3, we needed and ambulance to the Delhi airport and....

4. "Their" medical supervisor thought it would be ok for is to take a taxi or a private car from the airport to the Knox private hospital.  ( this was the only time that abc has yelled at poor Kate at Customer Care who are sub contractors to cover more insurance)

And then with 10 minutes before we were due to leave the clinic, the clinic tells us that there has been no guarantee of payment, and we would not be getting our paper work and file  'til this was done.  This is second time they've done this....

The ambulance ride, lights and siren all the way, then pretty tight security at the airport where unless you have passport and eticket you don't get into any building within departures, soldiers and police....all armed, some even have big guns..

Each if these required specific phone calls, and a different person to speak to....so we are really annoyed at the insurance company who has to take responsibility for the work their sub contractors do.

So....make sure you research exactly what experience your insurer has who are their partners in the country you are travelling to, what these partners' reputation is, and that they will return phone calls, and don't always take the one Flight Centre foists upon you.  Do your research. 

East-west clinic and rescue service  was the only thing right they did, and we can not speak highly enough of the medical care we got there.  Enough ranting....

We are on our way home.....leaving soon and arriving back home some time tomorrow morning, straight to the hospital, and get Nathalie settled there.    A big nursing issue in India, appears to be the reluctance to provide sufficient and proactive pain relief....what we would take for a headache at home. 2 x 500 mg paracetamol, they provide less 1 x 650 mg paracetamol post op...we could not make them understand the concept of developed tolerance...they must of thought we were seekers.

Andrew's every day medication is more than the post op stuff Nathalie got. 

Love to youse all and I will finalise once we get back......

East-West Medical Clinic, B28 Greater Kailish, Part 1, New Delhi- Day Four.

Wednesday 23rd July.

Another visit to the operating room for Nathalie, so that the dressing can be changed, the wound cleaned up around the edges, and a backslab put on.

Once again the gingham gown, we thought, was a fashion statement worth noting.

A bit more necrotic tissue was scraped away, but Nathalie recovered from this GA much better that Monday's visit.  The dressing is somewhat more substantial, with a backslab to ensure we don't get foot droop.

Thursday 24th July.

The lovely Dr Sangeeta reviewed this morning, and the pain medication regime was discussed. Considering the issue is post operative pain, it has to be dealt with.  It seems that one and a quarter panadol can resolve all pain for Indian people, and that will only be given when the pain is extreme.  It was ascertained that due to our developed tolerance to paracetamol, it doesn't work as well as the local doctors were expecting.  So we are now on  regular and increased doses of analgesia, as well as oral antibiotics, in lieu of the IV stuff.

In anticipation of a long journey home, the doctors wanted Nathalie to spend a bit of time sitting out of bed, and we managed to negotiate a four hour leave pass.  So a car was hired and a driver, and squeezing Nathalie into the back seat, off we went.

The highlight of the trip for Nathalie was

A.  Sunlight...well sort of

B. McDonalds chips

And

C. The really friendly and talkative Sikh driver....NOT.

You can see the mirth exploding from every pore of his being.

Considering Nathalie has not been at large, or for that matter much out of bed for nearly two weeks it was quite exhausting, and the crappy cappuccino, mango cheese cake, coke, and fries were all a bit much, so back we went to East-Westmedical clinic.  

East-West Medical Clinic, B28 Greater Kailish, Part 1, New Delhi- Day two

Firstly for our own recollection the following time line of our travel bump.

>Sat Night of the 12th July, thought foot was a bit sunburnt, or insect bite, got topical ab from Dev Sanscriti Doctor who visited guest house.

>Sunday Morning of 13th foot a bit sorer, so went to Dev Sanscriti University Hospital and was prescribed Oral AB.  Travelling 12 hrs towards Monsiere - was not keeping anything down was sleeping in car, and pain increasing.  Sunday - Night of 13th first noticed blood pooling under skin on foot.

>Monday Morning of 14th of hospital Haldwani - IV abs and tramadol, admitted to Brij Lal.

>Tuesday 15th site re dressed in ward.

>Wednesday 16th first debridement on ward by Dr Karan skin for drainage and re dressed.

>Thursday 17 debridement on ward and  re dressed

>Friday 18th.  Debridement on ward in am.   Friday evening concluded IV AB 

>Sat 19 th. Dressed and 'ambulance'  to Dehli East West clinic examined and re dressed back on IV ab and IV pain Dr Sangeeta. Travel strongly advised against, risk of DVT too great.

> Sunday 20th examined by Dr Rasan  Plastics specialist recommended further debridement  under ga-  examined by Dr Kamresh gas 

>Monday 21st surgery to debride to clean wound bed.

It does seem quite like a blurr, don't it.

The East- West (temporary) Clinic whilst the real one is having renovations done.

Having a male child is still for marriage purposes, very important in India.  There have been many documented cases of female child either being abandoned or killed.  Our experience is that all conversation is directed to the male, and deferred to for all decisions.  Of recent years the Indian government made pre-birth gender determination illegal, as medical and non medical abortions were rife.

And it is illegal

This area of town I feel is somewhat posh, because within the general area there are several gated sectors, and some shops where there are windows, and doors, and credit card facilities.....not that these are the places likely frequented by the Caulfields.

Nathalie was carted off to the theatre so that Dr Rasan could debride the wound a bit more, reducing the pain, and the necrotic areas.    This was to take about an hour, so ABC got a chance to wander around a bit...all by myself...without supervision, and he managed to find his way back.   During the wandering a there was a police compound, which did not invite photography probably because of the two guards with machine guns, did not seem all that welcoming.   I am sure, however that I could hear an interview in progress, from the street.  There were three big crowd control trucks and tens of the Ambassador brand cars, which look antique, but are in fact very new and apparently are the preferred police vehicle.

The 'Ambassador' brand car, which seems to be the model most favoured for the police and VIP transport.  This one has its blue light covered.

There is an Irish lady here, Elizabeth, who is the founder creator, and manager of the East-West Clinic and East-West rescue , and also is an English trained nurse, so it was lovely to see a bit of nursing style that we are more familiar with.   Nathalie even got a wrist tag today...after surgery though.   

That's the room..the blue curtains....

Anyway, Doctor Rasan tells us that she had to debride a bit more than initially expected but she is happy with the clean wound bed she now has..well the wound bed that Natahlie has.

Nathalie was quite impressed with the Operation gown she was given though....

Sorry, photo of a photo.

So it's now a wait and see.....get the pain under control, change dressings a few more times and then hopefully a 'clean bill of health' to go home.....    

Meanwhile on the next day.....22nd July

Not a real good sleep time, as the reaction to the GA wasn't all that good.

Dr Kamresh and Rasan, both came and attend the redressing of the operation site.  This was quite painful, so Dr Kamresh was able to give some 'good stuff' which eventually took the edge off the pain. Dr Rasan, wants to do another dressing tomorrow in the Theatre, so the pain can be a little better controlled.     

Lat today the pain receded, and it seems that Nathalie is now able to catch up on some well deserved rest. 

See youse all next time.

Brij Lal Hospital and Research Centre, Haldwani, Uttarakhand Day Six thence to Delhi

Stuck in Delhi for. Few more days -more below.

We will not recommend or be using the in-house insurance that is promoted by Flight Centre.  This company is Cover- More Insurance..   They HAVE been named on the blog.

Through the good graces of a friend of Ajay, who resies in Haldwani, we were released from the hospital.    The insurer told us they would settle the account and there was no need for us to max out the ATM every day.  No matter how clear we had made the situation to the insurance company, overt a number of days that the Brij Lal hospital was a cash only, and pay before release organisation, they still had not transferred the cash into the hospital's account.  Mr Paugita, a local bank manager and philanthropist actually fronted with a bank cheque, and deposited this with the hospital as a guarantee that the insurance company would pay.... All up about $1800 au. we will obviously make sure that this has happened and Mr Paugita gets his cheque back.  It was very stressful, at the end if a very stressful time at the beginning of a very stressful journey, brought about by the incompetence of our insurers, who seem to think that all medical establishments in the world are as trusting as those not in far north India. 

Late last night the insurer told us they had booked a flight for us 'tomorrow' which meant that we had to leave at 0200 local time, and we had to arrange an ambulance and we had to arrange payment. Not hey seems to think that 300 ks on the map in India during the monsoon,  is the same as 300 ks in the Australian outback.  It wasn't till several frantic phone calls later that the insurer told us that "Oh we meant our tomorrow".  Can you imagine an international insurance agency using such terminology lightly.  

Pretty annoyed would sum it up.   And we will be formalising a series of complaints upon our return.

Any way, after an expected departure at 0700 the money sorted and the foot dressed again, we said our good byes to the nurses and students.  I think they were really sad to see "ma'am " leave.  The insurer told us to just get in the ambulance and they will confirm where in Delhi we will go...not that we trusted them, we had to get going, lest the really creepy cleaners try to sweep our room for the fifteenth time in an hour...or the nursing assistants attend several time to enquire of our welfare ( albeit they wouldn't bring a meal for Nathalie) )we later found out in the expectation that we would tip them for their annoying, inappropriate and intrusive behaviour.....not likely...even if we did a bit   It is very clear that the Caste system, no matter how denied, is still in existence, even if only informally.   The cleaners, nursing assistants, and food deliverers, are clearly of a subservient class, to all other employees, and barely given any courtesy, or politeness by the other staff.  Very hierarchical.  Apparently this tipping of all domestic staff is standard fare here at hospitals...not that they seem to do much good for the care of the patient.

Ajay and Kisskintha left at 0700 to both travel north to Monsirie.  This was in a 'taxi' a very crowded 'bolero" with lots if stuff on the roof.  It was very sad to say goodbye, but we know how important the temple at Monsiere is to Ajay, and this is the first time Kisskintha will be visiting there.  The have been heavy rains in these parts over the last few days, so the journey for them will take 14 hours...give or take, with more than 300 ks of precipitous and winding roads....should have been us on that road...oh well everything happens for a reason. 

The "ambulance' Journey.

We have to accept we are in India, and that thigs is different in these parts...which we do, but without appearing too judgemental or churlish, we thought we would describe the seven and a half hour journey from Halwani to Delhi.  Other than the fact that it had a blue light' siren (of sorts)on top and 'ecnalubma'  written on the front, and the butchers hook on the wall, maybe for IV bottles (?) this could have been a bread delivery truck.  

It is a Suzuki type delivery van.  It has a top speed of a huge 80 kph, most of the journey was at a greatly less speed than that.   There were however a number of 'divided' (divided in parenthesis because at any given time there could be several vehicles traveling towards you on our side of the road) highway areas that this speed could have been exceeded.  Suspension was negligible, and there were thousands of bumps..   The air condition at best worked sporadically stopping twice to have motor workshop look at it, and even in monsoon, the back was oven like.

The engine did a good imitation of the F1 engine, in noise only, so any conversation was impossible at speeds above 50 kph.   The Australian concept of ambulance, is not really relevant here.  The driver, with limited English, as lovely as he was, was just a driver.   Thee was no paramedic support, no O2, not even a first aid kit.   The siren, when used, just seemed to make the other drivers more detirmined to get in the way.

Poor Nathalie's view

Seven and a half hours later we arrived at the East-West Clinic, Greater Kalllish, Part 1, New Delhi.

East-West Clinic, Greater Kalllish, Part 1, New Delhi.

Maybe our insurers have got something right.  This clinic/ hospital, contracts to insurance companies to cater for foreigners, to treat, assess and repatriate injured and ill travellers.

It was great dealing with someone who knew what was going on.   And us not having to deal with the amateurs at the Australian end of the insurers is a huge relief...they only added stress.

Immediately Nathalie was assessed by Dr Sangeeta, the dressing taken down! and the bad news given.  Her reccomedation is that there will be no travel home for a few days yet.   The biggest concern  expressed is that with the swelling, infection, and open wound, the risk of DVT is too great.  So it won't be to the fancy hotel to wait for the flight tomorrow, but stay at the clinic, straight on to more IV ab, and painkillers to control the pain, probably caused by all the bumping/ and heat  in the ambulance, and Sunday we expect to be further assessed by a Plastics specialist, to express a further prognosis, plan of attack.  It seems at this stage that Andrew's level 1.5 first aid, medical training in Indonesia, and watching many episodes of House ( actually we saw house only two days ago on the TV at Haldwani) does not qualify him to tend the IV abs that may be reaquired on the flight.

Anyway the nursing care here, is far more wholistic, and not task focused.  Many of the nurses are from Tibet...   The poor nurses are subjected to intense scrutiny of the IV monster 'have you flushed that'  'is it running right'.  But she is happy with the positioning and functioning of this cannula.

An IV cannula to Nurse Nat's satisfaction

The two bed room.  

there have been a series of tests, blood urine and swabs run that maybe should have been run up north, and some tests on Nathalie as well .

Sunday am Delhi 

We have just been visited by a plastics specialist, and she is not happy with the continuing spread of the infection, and possible necrotic areas .   The pain has to, also be under control.   As of a few moments ago, it is apparent that further debridement is required under G.A, to provide a clean wound bed, before we travel....which now may be the end of this week, early next week at the earliest.    So surgery Monday morning, unless deemed needed earlier, pending on infection spread.   

The surgery now has been booked for 1130 Monday, and it is heartening to see the barrage of tests already being done...on Nathalie.   ECG with suction cap leads, bedside clotting tests with slide and stopwatch, the anthenististest , anastestists, gas lady doctor visited, a in room chest X-ray...all on Nathalie.....

Waiting waiting waiting.  More later if not beforehand.

Brij Lal Hospital and Research Centre, Haldwani, Uttarakhand Day Five

Nathalie is intent on going home.....regardless of the medical implications that the journey of probably more than 24 will incur.  She is not able to walk, other than a stagger to the loo and shower.   It seems that only after the Doctor provides a fitness to travel letter, do the insurers work out the transport plan....so it may take longer than we planned to get home,   We will see.  It is pretty much confirmed now that Nathalie will be discharged from Haldwani on the 19th, with a stop for some time in Delhi, waiting the first suitable flight home.

That's our room, to the right immediately above the 'emergency ' sign.

There are many people who come and go from the room, from the 0600 barge in with the fresh bedding and new pjyamas,with the fully expectation that one is out of bed and the bed is made in the time the shower is taken.   Then there is the procession of cleaners, one for the floors one for the sinks, etc, and the roles do not change, or cross over.   The security guard bringing in the cold water this morning was unusual.   I think we have been assigned one attendant, who seems to be around all the time.  

Had some difficulty convincing the staff that the doctor had required another bold test for WVC, but eventually the poor resident was called up and signed off on the test, and the result of the to indicates that the infection is at a stage that will permit oral ab, short term.

ABC went out across the road from the hospital to the fruit vendor, and paid nearly $2.50 for three apples and five bananas.   Thought had been scammed, until looking at the apples, were surprised to find apples here are imported from the USA.  Highly curious. 

Product of USA in far North India.

The staff here are mostly very happy, competent within the limited scope of their training but very little initiative beyond teyond the doctors' instructions.  Storage, administration and disposal of drugs  and sharps is not what we understand as standard.  Infection control on the handling of sharps and IV instruments etc, are not quite what we are used to.   I do, however doubt that their is much golden staph, VRE etc. as this seems to be a condition of 'very clean' hospitals.

Sister Priti

It is really sad, that these lovely ladies lament the fact that their skin is not lighter, and they feel that they   have horrible skin and hair..  Very self deprecating, which is a shame.    They always feel that the grass is greener on the other side of the wall....from them.    

We are having some very frank conversations with the insurer, and we have pretty much organised the hospital placement once back in Melbourne. 

Visited again by our favourite students, who are really keen for Natahlie to have her hands hennaed.

 

Ever the teacher- a lesson on the unconscious patient, to student Manpreet.

The students love visiting ma'mm.  It is so they have a foreign FB friend, but demonstrating a deep desire to find out how we live our lives,  and especially how the nursing is done.  They have very low computer literacy so much of their information is still from off line books, and lectures.   To see the information on an IPad, immediately at hand is very confronting.  

But then it happened two operations at the same time

Most importantly the henna...left hand right for

And the surgical bit

At the same time

Hopefully the next blog will be from Melbourne, as after a lot of fanarkling, a. The insurance company has paid the hospital ..we hope and b. There is a flight booked on the 20th getting home on the 21st.

On the 19th we will somehow be got from Haldwani to ' a hospital in Dehli,where we  will stay overnight, have wound re dressed and then final assessment for Fitness to Fly..... 

Brij Lal Hospital and Research Centre, Haldwani, Uttarakhand Day three to four

Thee has been a positive move from the insurance company....they just wanted the paperwork first.  Clearly my expectation of the helicopter from the roof of the hospital, to the C130 on the tarmac at Delhi, with the full medivac team,lights and bells, was a bit of am overdramatisation of the way things happen.   The thoughts of the insurer, and correctly so, is that NJC is safe and receiving the care that is needed here.

In hindsight the only criticism could be that of the time taken to let us know all they have been doing in the background.

As of  Wednesday the attending physician, Dr Karan, looked at the leg, and with an audience of many people including the cleaner, he  cut away the dead skin and it is now draining naturally.  The is the need for further surgery to debride the dead tissue, and the will have to be a skin graft.  Dr Karan is satisfied that this further surgery is not necessary to be done here, and under certain conditions travel home first can be done.   This is contingent upon the white blood cell count coming down from 19000 to a more reasonable level where IV ab are not required. Could be four or five days.

There is no way we can continue this extraordinary adventure, this time.

The view from the hospital bed...uniquely showing something sadly lacking in most placed we have visited...blue sky

Happily, we have just been advised that the insurance company is covering and will sort out  'door to door' transport, so I now have a gazillion rupees (taken from the ATM in anticipation  of having to front with the cash here).... Let's party.....or maybe not.....

So that's the good news...everything is relative...and we're doing ok.

I mentioned a group of student nurses....they are a Godsend, they have taken a shine to Nathalie, and have used Nathalie as a case study.   They practice their English, and are very interested in how we live, and are happy to tell us all bout their world, loves, and arranged marages, their love of dancing....which they demonstrated.    They have served to take Nathalie's mind off the pain and they seem to get along wonderfully with Kiskinda or 'aunty', all the time tending to the blocked cannula, water glass, taking NJC to the loo etc.  

We have genuinely been invited to an arranged wedding in December....not sure we'll quite make it back by then.  They are all very keen to get their nursing qualifications and mostly move out of India, to the 'dream land', Australia.   

ABC went for a wander, a few doors from the hospital, past the enormous bullock chewing its cud right across the footpath, the pony carts, and death defying road crossing, to a nearby mega mart( nothing like the size of the 'mega' marts in Indonesia, to get a few supplies. It is very surprising there are not supermarket riots.  It was amazingly slow disorganised, and queues...don't really mean much.....I am learning.  Generally a bit taller and heavier than many of the locals..used politely and prudently works.  Smaller change is given in lollies.  

Brij Lal Hospital and Research Centre -Haldwani, Uttarakhand, Imdia

 

BTW- did you know that the eBook copy of Lonley Planet, does not contain useful phrases in the selected foreign language as has existed forever in the printed copy. Instead, when most needed in the hinterland one is referred to buying an app. Unconscionable as far as I'm concerned.   Thank goodness we had our magnificent hosts to help us .  There is no preface indication that the e book does not have this list.  I will be broaching my concerns with the Lonley Planet people on their non existent complaints or contact email...if anyone can supply...

Heading into day three, things are still heading towards a positive result. Things not improving as quickly as we hoped, and Nathalie is still in quite a bit of pain, feverish, and the necrotised area looks a bit nasty.    The infection is still there, and the IV ab are still a necessity.

Whilst I did not lie about the view of the Himalayas, from the hospital  window, it would be very overstated to suggest they are in any way spectacular from this town, they probably just are as magnificent as the Dandenongs, from Ringwood.  Travelling the other day to Nantali, the potential of the scenery was very apparent.

Once again, as hospitals go in this part of the world, and for that matter in many places we have been, this place is good. Certainly the western concept of patient care, is not valid, the expectation is that the family ( ie ABC and Suyra's family) do the feeding, washing of, fetching toileting etc.  The place is very clean, the floors mopped at least four times a day.

Every item used in the treatment of the patient, right down to the non sterile gloves, syringes and swabs are itemised and paid for in cash and collected by the patient or rep, before the treatment.  

The way it works is the doctor visits and says what needs doing.  The staff nurse writes it on a letterhead slip of paper, which is unceremoniously given to the patient and told to go to pharmacy to get.  Off we toddle to the pharmacy in the main foyer, give the slip to the "Pharmacist" who fills the order, put it into a shopping bag, and demands the cash.  Some of the orders, confsidring the antibiotics NJC is on, runs to about $100 a.u, which is about 5000 r .  We hope the ATM holds out.

Then scheduled drugs and all are given to yours truely, to hopefully take back to the patient to be put in the secure DD cabinet, which is the unlocked bedside drawer. 

The nurses so far are very caring, they can afford to take the time and are very gentle.   Some seem a bit overwhelmed, by being cross examined by our various visitors, some of whom have extensive scientific backgrounds, the consultants, registrars, treating doctors, Gmo, nurse in charge, Nathalie, and the most formidable is Surya's mum,Kiskinda   (sp).  

For every procedure there are no fewer than four people in the room, but 

And two you can't see- note the washing....pretty normal.

We are still concerned as to getting home, but the insurer has received a letter from the doctor here, so we will see what happens. Travel within India, in a conventional sense, is not possible as Nathalie can't walk and the foot has to be elevated, not withstanding the IV ab. 

We will see.

Another first for the Caulfield family. And an original one at that.

Another first for the Caulfield family. And an original one at that.

As you read this you are probably thinking..... Wow that must be having such a good time that they have forgotten about us....

Alas, no such motive is ascribed to our relative silence.  

Bold bits below tell the story  

 Initially it was getting around to a Airtel retailer who was knowledgeable enough to tie us to a 1 month relatively unlimited data usage, at that was done in a place called Rudrapura.

The journey from Haridwar to Monseri takes two days, probably because the roads are so crowded, generally in average to poor conditions especially through the towns, and to make 80 kph is an achievement, and with all the animals, not limited to dog, horses, donkeys, monkeys, cows, bullocks: people not limited to, pedestrians, cyclo riders, bicycle riders, three wheel taxis (saw 12 people in a five seater) of various configurations, buses, trucks ( usually Tata and belching and with extraordinary horns ) bullock carts, donkey carts, horse drawn carts, people drawn carts, and then pilgrims.  

Pilgrims are a category of their own.  Radiating from Haridwar carrying on, an exceptionally decorated over shoulder pole with a bucket of Ganga water in each are singularly and often in large groups of up to 30, in procession.  They walk with these buckets back to their home towns, which may be hundreds of kilometers.  

We travelling in a 'Bolero' which I think is a Great Wall vehicle like a Pajero, but very very basic, and does not seem to have a first or second gear, no rev counter, 30 deg    Movement of steering wheel before anything happened.  The driver, however, was wonderfully patient and very safe.

Anyway we stopped at the home of Suyra's brother's, in-laws just out of Rudrapura.  

We met Suyra's sister in law, and nephew, who clearly loved his paternal grandfather, and didn't Ajay rub it in with Kiskinda.  

Anyway back to the drama....Before bathing in the Ganga NJC though her foot was sunburnt, and thought nothing more of it.  But a small blister onthe underside of hrs foot had burst allowing an infection to get in?  Over two days, despite early oral antibiotics, from the university dispensary, on advice from medical authorities back home, the foot did not get better,resulting in a horrible journey for Nathalie, fever, vomiting and pain, and after getting just past Nanital (actually in the Himalayas ) at the overnight stop it developed, into a creeping cellulitis, and a high fever.  

So on Monday the 14th, deciding hospital was the only option, Ajay organised for us to turn around and go back three hours to the next major town ( probably makes for two Melbourne's)which was Haldwani.

Went first to the 'Government approved' hospital but a lack of enthusiasm, grottyiness, and an offered 2 hour wait until the specialist could come, didn't impress us, and we went with plan B.  To the private hospital down the road.  NJC was somewhat out of it at this stage, so time was of the essence.

I am told that the Brij Lal hospital and Research Centre in Halwani has 4.3 out of 5 stars on Google, whatever that means.  But we were greeted by an interested Doctor, relatively clean ED, and a quick diagnosis of creeping cellulitis and necrotising something or other.  

For the first time we have taken out travel insurance other than that which is provided with the credit cards...spooky.  Initial discussions and emails to the insurer, they wanted to know stuff we had already told them in the application process...a bit frustrating.  They initially thought it would be good for us  to get to Dehli to see 'their' recommended Doctor....Obviously no idea what travel in India is about or appreciation of the seriousness of the condition.

They were told where we are at, and that it is a strictly cash only process, no credit cards.   Hopefully their people will talk to the hospital people at Brij Lal, and sort something out, lest the ATM be maxed every day, and I'd rather not have to name the insurer.  Maybe it will be named.  

Spoiled rotten

Whilst by Australian standards it is not exorbitantly expensive, everything has to be purchased at the pharmacy,with cash, and brought by the patient to the room, some of the antibiotics are very expensive too.  But obviously we would pay whatever it takes.  I get the impression however that money would not be a problem if cash access was an issue, so generous and giving the people of the Mata Gaytria  Pariwar foundation are, and Ajay seems to know someone everywhere.  

We have have more visitors than the golden temple (or so it seems) every one of the visitors having a look at the leg, medical and non medical alike, and are genuinely concerned that we had had this happen to us in their country.  The visitors, especially Doctor Gupta, has provided meals, kind thoughts and a genuine caring.   The major benefactor of the foundation, All World Gayatri Pariwar, also visited.  This man donated the land that the Monseri Temple that is to built upon.  He found out that we were here through the grape vine. 

The room or suite is two rooms, the ante room designed for family gatherings and for family to sleep, the main room is quite basic, but functional.

As the only westerners on site, we have been visited by what seems to be nearly every doctor and nurse in the place. Including the gaggle of nursing students who go around in flocks of six or seven.

Please be assured that we are (relatively) in the best place possible,the medical care is different to our expectations but still top notch, and according to our best advice back home medication is as should be.  At this stage it seems the diagnosis is cellulitis, with necrotising fasciitis.  There is no way we can leave here under a week, as the course of ab have to run their course swelling reduced and NJC be able to travel. Hey we might even spend an extended holiday here.... Lovely as the people Are, hopefully not.    As far as being protected, we could not be in better hands with Suyra's mum running interference,and being the mamma.  Upon our very strong insistence, Ajay has gone to the Temple for a few days..... We're not going anywhere but Kisnkinda was vehement that she would stay.  

I know you all want to provide best wishes and thoughts and thank you.  Our children and parents have been advised.   There is nothing that can be done other than what is happening, it is in the hands of our insurers and the doctors here.  Be mindful that bandwidth is limited and wi fi unknown.  All communications will be through data hot spot on phone.  Very limited.

Will update as we can and love youse all....

Ganges and bathing therein- next blog very important- please read for update there has been a problem

Friday 

Bit of a lazy morning, up at 5 am for the Yagev, then caught up on some housekeeping until a bit later in the day....Ajay catching up on his paperwork.

Later went to another Mother Earth temple, this one six stories high, and on each floor a number if the deities and Indian heroes.   Somewhat blasphemously, we, especially. Nathalie, was more of a focus for the people.  If we were to charge 100 rupees and give it to the University for each photo, it'd be a good earner.

Then another highlight. Bathing in the Ganges.   This far up the Ganges, or Ganga, the water is quite fast flowingm many large rapids, and a multitude of large islands cut the river into many steams.  The water here is also relatively cold: 23-25 deg. And it is relatively clean.  Swim and duck under the water...yes, rinse mout out...maybe not.

So that's what was done, with my two Indian cousins, we bathed. And everyone changing on the banks. 

Bathing in the Ganga at Haridwar 

Then via Suyra's motorcycle. We were returned to the guesthouse, and after a genuine Lassie (drink not dog) .

A gift from our hosts

Saturday 

This is a big day in the university, it is as best we can work out the commencement of the University year, but also the celebration of the founder Kulpita and his wife Kulmata, who have been somewhat deified as very learned, wise, and the founder of this All World Gayatri Pariwar, which is the core of the university.

Usually 3-4 thousand people in total on site during year, now there is 20,000 from all parts of India.

The university has every available space used as free sleeping area classrooms,offices, halls, verandas etc.  they also will feed three times a day in Langar style, all of these people.

Never really sure what we are going to be doing.....it is clear that Ajay is respected on the Campus, he says you follow, we do.     

I think it is because we are guests for the pro vice chancellor, that a few words and we are pushed to the front of a line, the front row of a hall, and the number of people we have met is amazing.  

Pushed through a crowd to a gate, admitted to find us in the front row of a huge open hall full of sitting followers,  and flowing out into the adjoining open areas.  Maybe 10,000 people.  Indian music and singing happening, 10 musicians on stage, and the chancellor Dr Padaya and his wife sitting on the stage.  And they happily moved to make room.   We had seen people crowding in this area an hour previous.     It is a little bit embarrassing.   My Hindi is a little bit rusty, but the gist of the 30 minute talk was about being good to each other, don't push your luck, and the launching of the 2015 Calander, and several publications.

After that, and being introduced to professors, managers and other important people, once again we are pushed, through a back door this time, to another line.   This line however was the longest one I have ever seen. Probably wound around the campus for a km at least.

 Imagine the AFL was giving out all free Grand Final tickets, and it is an Essendon v Collingwood match....BUT...there is only one window open.....then a foreigner gets put into the line four from the front....would not go down well...here- not a murmur....but we are helpless to object.

Then we realise we are back in the audience hall and meeting Dr Pandya again.   Once again he has a presence about him.

Meeting Dr Pandya, and the front row at the oration.

After this we were returned to the Guesthouse, where we were given time to have some quiet time.  Much appreciated as we had already done a full day by then.

Then into Haridwar proper. As this is a full moon and the guru Poya festival, and the month is dedicated to a local Hindu deity, it was very very busy...the Ganges here, down stream of where we bathed yesterday, is a fuller river, but not at all enticing, but how could the 50,000 Indians bathing here be wrong.....putting our feet in, was enough.

The crowds...Oh the humanity....

There were thousands of people filling bottles with Ganges water, and several hundred Tim Minchen look a likes......but these were the real thing...real Holy Men, who may have walked hundreds of kms to get here.  Quite scary really.  Like  something out of Monty Python, but real.

Some more of the crowd

The whole bank of the river is one big set of bathing steps, and it is a serious no shoe zone, with security aggressively enforcing.   Very bezerk, in an Indian way, once again out hosts were marvellous, and ensured we saw whatever we wanted, and some....they remind us very much of us....they are very funny.   

Then back to the Ganga, where ABC swam yesterday, and it was hot enough for NJC to embible as well.   The water snake worried her a bit,  but what are the odds of a white Australian Woman, getting fatally bitten by a water snake in the Ganga?......I'd take your money.  It was very refreshing.

Dev Sanskriti University. Haridwar - day two.

Bandwidth very tight not spotting via phone so only one photo attached....will repost with photos once we have wi if again.....

Surya's dad. Ajay, is a civil engineer, and has in this trade provided many years of voluntary service to the University and the foundation which supports it.  One of his projects at the moment, is building a Temple at a place called Monsiere(sp?), the best we can work out is that it is three villages shy of the Chinese border, and near the border of Nepal, well and truely within the Himalayas. It is at best 14 hours travel by road from here.  Being aware of our want of different travel processes, asked if we would want to visit...he was very clear that it was not fancy, it was a long way, and no five star journey.  

Thought about if for about no seconds, and accepted.

What this means is that we will have to 'sacrifice' all up, about eight days of other travels in India, but that's no issue.

After Yagev, which is the morning Hindu prayer ceremony, which we attended we were taken to visit a number of people, the most impressive was Dr Pranav Pandya who is not only the Honourary Chancellor of the university, but the head of All World Gayatri Pariwar....which has more than (only) ninety million followers world wide..he is revered here as a wise and spiritual man.   There was a line of about 100 people waiting to see him.      Initially we had to write our names and place or origin which was given to a secretary.  Security was pretty tight, relatively speaking, I would not have argued with the gent with the ancient .410 single barrelled shotgun. We wre all lined up, and then our hosts, Ajay, his wife Kithkinda, and Suyra's cousin Xxxxxx were pulled out of the line and ushered into an audience room.  This was becoming the norm, and to object would have been more discourteous.

It is clear that Dr Pandya Is revered, and there were people bowing at his feet, and he had an amazing presence.   We were introduced to the Doctor and his wife, sitting on two chairs, somewhat sitting in state and were asked about how long we had been in India, what our work was, and what we intended to do. He asked if our families were well, and were blessed.  It was quite awkward as we weren't sure what we were expected to do, so we just sat on the ground.  At the conclusion, were given some small sweets, and a packet of blessed head dot powder.  Apparently part of the visit was also to seek the Doctor's permission for us to travel with Ajay to Monsiere, which was granted.

Imagine a very long line of people

A line passing us by

We were then introduced to a number of other important people on the Campus the international director, the Estate manager (Ajays boss) then back to the canteen for some breakfast.  Once we got back to our guesthouse, we were again expected to eat breakfast.

With Ajay, his wife and cousin, we went a-touring.  The mountains about 70 ks from the university rises to about 6000 ft, and it was appreciably cooler, to a place called Monsoorie, perched on the side of what  is a very unstable mountain, so much so, that a landslide last year, caused tens of thousands of deaths.  Travelling with an engineer makes for different perspectives.  

Imagine a windy road

Highway. 58, near Monsoorie

Then to Kemptie, a big waterfall system, initially famously in the Colonial times for the place where the British camped for tea.  It is like one continuous waterpark, swimming, arcades, many, many, many shops offering for people to dress up as Cossacks, kings queens, milk maids, with either a real or painted waterfall backdrop....quite busy.   The roads up there were quite good, the driver we had was excellent,  and the traffic.....welll, nowhere near as frantic as Amritsar, but it is India.

Suyra's Dad and Mum at Kemptie Falls. Top pools

Just imagine

At least he's wearing bathers.

Suyra's cousin...not ABC

Kemptie Falls...bottom pools.

At the lunch stop

On the way back we made a stop at Rishikesh, on the banks of the Ganges, but were too late for the last ferry, so just wandered, and at dusk put a toe in the Ganges, which, here runs very fast, cold and realively clean..althought don't think I'd drink it.  

Ganges at dusk Rishikesh. And Andrew got himself one of those boy tops 'kuta' still aiming for a dojti.  NJC wearing ABCs elephant (print) pants.

Then it was dark, pretty scary on the roads, back to the main campus, staff dining room for more food, then to bed by ten...huge day...up at five tomorrow.

Now, if we get lost.....we will not be far from Ajay, who is Suyra dad.....May be off line for as long as a week as of Sunday....so do not worry

Amritsar to Haridwar. ( Hari-dwar, Hari-dwar, Hari-dwar)

After almost no sleep, the excitement I suppose, we're on the train to Haridwar.

Been to quite a few places in the past six years, Singapore, Cambodia, Frankston,Laos, Vietnam, Brunei, Malaysia, North Dandenong, Thailand, Sri Lanka, Indonesia, and now India.  Amritsar is a stand-out place.   

In a frantic theatrical way, it is a very spiritual place, obviously with the Sikh Holiest place the Golden Temple, being the highlight.  There have not been too many sights that we have been back to three times, in three days.  Even the free feeds didn't sway the decision.

An apparent hang over from British rule, is the paperwork required every time anything needs doing....being guests of the Indian government it would be churlish to be grumpy about the time spent, however after a long day of travel, and a his and hers registration forms...etc etc.  .oiyvey...   

Whilst we pride ourselves on being independent travellers the trip so far has been astounding for the warmth and hospitality of our hosts, as arranged by our yogi Suyra.

The train journey from Amritsar, six hours, was un eventful and relatively stress fre, as we acclimatise to India Rail.  The Sikh conductors on this line wear brown turbans.....just to confuse me.

Now brave enough to jump off the train at a two minute stop to get breakfast snacks...Some advice if you ever visit India...don't lie on the railway tracks in India..especially when a train is crossing over you...the toilets dump onto the tracks.

We were met at the Haridwar Railway station by Surya's dad, Ajay a distinguished gentleman, in local garb, bundled us into taxi, out of the heat and through the town.  Haridwar is a very holy place for the Hindu, is situated on the mid upper reaches of the Ganga, or as we know it, the Ganges.   We think we have seen big rivers in Australia......nothing like this, it is, in several tributaries, huge.

We were taken to the Dev Sanskriti University where Surya did his Health and Yoga science degree.  This is also where Suyra's dad donated much time as a civil engineer, to the building program, that he has a residence on site, and we are guests of the Pro VIce Chancellor, and given a suite, in the Chanellors guest house.   It is very impressive in a basic way.  Way better than we would have chosen for ourselves and are very thankful.

After registering with all the paperwork at the Pro Vice Chancellor's office we were given refreshments and then after a tour of the campus, we were welcomed by Dr Chimay Pandya, who was a very engaging and impressive man he also gave us a brief run down on the history of both the All world Gayatri Pariwar and the University that rose from it.  The former organisation nas ninety million followers world wide and the basis is a moral spiritual ethos, irregardless of ones faith ethnicity etc. it also supplies free medical and social assistance, including disaster relief, when required anywhere in India. The University is based on the theory that science without spirituality is destined for trouble, so every student of the university undertakes to provide three months of free service to the community at the conclusion of their course.    Whilst there is a fee structure, it is heavily subsidised by the former organisation, and will provide for free if required....look it up on the internetty thing

A tour of both campus of 600 acres, was clean tidy, quiet peaceful and amazingly respectful of the teachers and Ajay seemed to know everybody.  The campus is self sufficient in dairy, vegetables, water, some paper supplies,  has a what is presumed to be a "disabled industries", as well as teaching trades such as dairy farming, weaving, clothes making and other cottage industries.

There is also a large industry in at-cost Auvedic medicines(herbal medicines of the Hindu/ Indian ilk) a large acupressure walk.....large sumat best described as a very big sundial.  It has up to three thousand students over the two campus.

We then had tea at the canteen, and to bed

Bandwidth is pretty light on here, so I have not added any pictures.

The next blog will include our next day 5 am Yagev service, a meeting with the Chancellor, and several other important people on campus, two breakfasts, visit to Monsoorie( and a public swim in a waterfall ) Risakesh (supposed to be the world headquarters of yoga) on the bank of the Ganges. And plans to travel to a place called Monseri, three villages short of the Chinese border, near Nepal....stay tuned....

BTW. There was a listener question as to why the border guards hats were orange.. Apparently it is just because it is one of the colours on the Indian Flag.

Golden Temple, part two- and another adventure of the hirsute kind

Decided to visit the Golden Temple again....it's just that sort of place.   Crowd much smaller but still in the tens of thousands.    This gave us an opportunity to actually get into the central Temple.  Only had to line up for half an hour.  The best we can work out is that the center of attention in the Holy Scripture .  The inner palace actually has golden plating on the walls, parapets, and the cupolas.  The mosaic work and frescoes are amazingly detailed and beautiful, but inside and not respectful  to take photos.

It's real gold.....

Just sat and watched the crowd go past and on no less than five times were we welcomed, hands shaken and blessed by different people.  And the photo opportunities too......

It was intended to be a photo of just Natahlie and ABC...but it is India. And ABC is not the only one wearing the safety orange hat.

The Sikhs have the Five Ks of their religion, long hair, combed twice daily, a Kirpan,kuchera which is an under/outer wear like draw string bloomers, and an iron bracelett.  All of which have significance.  The Kirpan, we discover, is only used in self defence, and defence of those in need of help..sounds familiar, and must always be ready.  The undies are always to be worn to show that they always are ready with no hesitation to defend their faith, to the extent of one foot out of old, and one foot in new kuchera.  They believe in the oneness of god, and that all religions have their place.Anyway...you can wiki all that stuff.

One of the thousands of sleeping Pilgrims, this gent showing his readiness to defend.

Many of the pilgrims are very aged, and some quite unwell....no stats we could find, but there would probably be quite a few who choose to take their last here.

Then the food Hall.

One of the other strict traditions of Sikhism, is the Langar or community kitchens which, for no charge , feeds all the pilgrims heading towards and at the Golden Temple.  

The concept of Langar is that all who come, irregardless of your origin or station in life, sit in a row and are served equally.  

The langer after our shift had left

 So...with several thousand other pilgrims, we walked in, were handed a segmented metal plate, a spoon and a bowl, and directed into a huge hall, where we were told to sit.  

Handing out the trays

The chapatti  flinger....

Some of the crowd

Yep..be jealous

Trays on ground and servers ( all men) with big buckets of food , including dhal, potato curry, rice,were distributed by big ladles, then chapattis were distributed by being thrown in a polite way, and huge tea pots served the water.  Sorry Rod, no Vegimite.

Not one of these people are paid, it is all volunteer, and donations. It is what is known as Sawar, or voluntary work.  Then desert was a type of sugary potato pumpkin mix.   

Foreground garlic prep, background  ONE of the piles of pumpkins.

One of the amazing things here was the noise...those metal plates do not get emptied, cleaned, stacked or distributed quietly....it put the street noise to shame.

At no time did we feel anything less than absolutely welcome.....and on the way out made an appropriate donation.. Hey!   We got a receipt...NJC suggested we must see what Rob ( the accountant) can do with that.....

Now for the washing up...we estimate about a thousand trays here...and there were many more of these..ain't no dishwashing machines here...all by hand.

The Sikh history museum, was on the way out, and it was a very gruesome telling, basically of the Sikh martyrs....and the horrible way they died, right up to the '80s, where 30 Sikhs, on a prison bus, travelling from a police court, were hit by a train....complete with pm photos.   It does show the way the Sikhs have stuck strongly to their beliefs, against at times, horrendous persecution.  But don't take the kiddies there.

The haircut..part two.

Nathalie, not being entirely happy with the Delhi hair cut (well not happy with the way ABC can not comb it) decide to get a hair cut and shave.   

Stae of the art equipment- but a fresh blade was used

Bit short on the side ..but for $4.00...

Could have charged admission-note the five of many spectators. 

Before the temple went to a cafe and had some breakfast.  The next people who walked were a couple, from Leiscester, UK. It so happens he is a plod from that part of the world and she a teacher.  Comparing conditions of employment...I think we do pretty well.  He has been to Melbourne, and will be seriously thinking about emigrating, especially when we get twice the leave, twice the pay, and guns as well....who hoo!  

 Siesta then plan to do the Golden Temple at night...we will see....

Surprisingly back to the Golden Temple area, because that is where the best street food is.  ABC now BSC 5, so after no ill effects of the Langar, street food is on the cards again.  Still beastly hot even at 8.00pm.  Tea consisted of Palo Tika

$1.10

And gulab Gulabi.(sp?)

..basically all sugar.   (About $2.00 )

Caught up with Avi once more and had a iced coffee with him.   He has been a great help to us in Amritsar.

Then the closing ceremony at the Golden Temple. Which is when the Holy Scripture is moved from its place of daily repose to its bedroom.   Most reverently done.  Much singing, changing and music. 

The paliquin for the Holy Scripture

Then based on advice from Avi, we returned to the Langar, where we were invited into the Automated Chapatti Device (ACD), even hot than the daytime, and smiling people, making about 80 chapattis a minute.

The happy volunteers, more so because there was some interest in what they were doing.

The cleaning up part of the kitchen kitchen did remind me of a battery farm though.

That's all really for this post.  Past midnight 5:30 start today..see ya.