Brij Lal Hospital and Research Centre -Haldwani, Uttarakhand, Imdia

 

BTW- did you know that the eBook copy of Lonley Planet, does not contain useful phrases in the selected foreign language as has existed forever in the printed copy. Instead, when most needed in the hinterland one is referred to buying an app. Unconscionable as far as I'm concerned.   Thank goodness we had our magnificent hosts to help us .  There is no preface indication that the e book does not have this list.  I will be broaching my concerns with the Lonley Planet people on their non existent complaints or contact email...if anyone can supply...

Heading into day three, things are still heading towards a positive result. Things not improving as quickly as we hoped, and Nathalie is still in quite a bit of pain, feverish, and the necrotised area looks a bit nasty.    The infection is still there, and the IV ab are still a necessity.

Whilst I did not lie about the view of the Himalayas, from the hospital  window, it would be very overstated to suggest they are in any way spectacular from this town, they probably just are as magnificent as the Dandenongs, from Ringwood.  Travelling the other day to Nantali, the potential of the scenery was very apparent.

Once again, as hospitals go in this part of the world, and for that matter in many places we have been, this place is good. Certainly the western concept of patient care, is not valid, the expectation is that the family ( ie ABC and Suyra's family) do the feeding, washing of, fetching toileting etc.  The place is very clean, the floors mopped at least four times a day.

Every item used in the treatment of the patient, right down to the non sterile gloves, syringes and swabs are itemised and paid for in cash and collected by the patient or rep, before the treatment.  

The way it works is the doctor visits and says what needs doing.  The staff nurse writes it on a letterhead slip of paper, which is unceremoniously given to the patient and told to go to pharmacy to get.  Off we toddle to the pharmacy in the main foyer, give the slip to the "Pharmacist" who fills the order, put it into a shopping bag, and demands the cash.  Some of the orders, confsidring the antibiotics NJC is on, runs to about $100 a.u, which is about 5000 r .  We hope the ATM holds out.

Then scheduled drugs and all are given to yours truely, to hopefully take back to the patient to be put in the secure DD cabinet, which is the unlocked bedside drawer. 

The nurses so far are very caring, they can afford to take the time and are very gentle.   Some seem a bit overwhelmed, by being cross examined by our various visitors, some of whom have extensive scientific backgrounds, the consultants, registrars, treating doctors, Gmo, nurse in charge, Nathalie, and the most formidable is Surya's mum,Kiskinda   (sp).  

For every procedure there are no fewer than four people in the room, but 

And two you can't see- note the washing....pretty normal.

We are still concerned as to getting home, but the insurer has received a letter from the doctor here, so we will see what happens. Travel within India, in a conventional sense, is not possible as Nathalie can't walk and the foot has to be elevated, not withstanding the IV ab. 

We will see.

Another first for the Caulfield family. And an original one at that.

Another first for the Caulfield family. And an original one at that.

As you read this you are probably thinking..... Wow that must be having such a good time that they have forgotten about us....

Alas, no such motive is ascribed to our relative silence.  

Bold bits below tell the story  

 Initially it was getting around to a Airtel retailer who was knowledgeable enough to tie us to a 1 month relatively unlimited data usage, at that was done in a place called Rudrapura.

The journey from Haridwar to Monseri takes two days, probably because the roads are so crowded, generally in average to poor conditions especially through the towns, and to make 80 kph is an achievement, and with all the animals, not limited to dog, horses, donkeys, monkeys, cows, bullocks: people not limited to, pedestrians, cyclo riders, bicycle riders, three wheel taxis (saw 12 people in a five seater) of various configurations, buses, trucks ( usually Tata and belching and with extraordinary horns ) bullock carts, donkey carts, horse drawn carts, people drawn carts, and then pilgrims.  

Pilgrims are a category of their own.  Radiating from Haridwar carrying on, an exceptionally decorated over shoulder pole with a bucket of Ganga water in each are singularly and often in large groups of up to 30, in procession.  They walk with these buckets back to their home towns, which may be hundreds of kilometers.  

We travelling in a 'Bolero' which I think is a Great Wall vehicle like a Pajero, but very very basic, and does not seem to have a first or second gear, no rev counter, 30 deg    Movement of steering wheel before anything happened.  The driver, however, was wonderfully patient and very safe.

Anyway we stopped at the home of Suyra's brother's, in-laws just out of Rudrapura.  

We met Suyra's sister in law, and nephew, who clearly loved his paternal grandfather, and didn't Ajay rub it in with Kiskinda.  

Anyway back to the drama....Before bathing in the Ganga NJC though her foot was sunburnt, and thought nothing more of it.  But a small blister onthe underside of hrs foot had burst allowing an infection to get in?  Over two days, despite early oral antibiotics, from the university dispensary, on advice from medical authorities back home, the foot did not get better,resulting in a horrible journey for Nathalie, fever, vomiting and pain, and after getting just past Nanital (actually in the Himalayas ) at the overnight stop it developed, into a creeping cellulitis, and a high fever.  

So on Monday the 14th, deciding hospital was the only option, Ajay organised for us to turn around and go back three hours to the next major town ( probably makes for two Melbourne's)which was Haldwani.

Went first to the 'Government approved' hospital but a lack of enthusiasm, grottyiness, and an offered 2 hour wait until the specialist could come, didn't impress us, and we went with plan B.  To the private hospital down the road.  NJC was somewhat out of it at this stage, so time was of the essence.

I am told that the Brij Lal hospital and Research Centre in Halwani has 4.3 out of 5 stars on Google, whatever that means.  But we were greeted by an interested Doctor, relatively clean ED, and a quick diagnosis of creeping cellulitis and necrotising something or other.  

For the first time we have taken out travel insurance other than that which is provided with the credit cards...spooky.  Initial discussions and emails to the insurer, they wanted to know stuff we had already told them in the application process...a bit frustrating.  They initially thought it would be good for us  to get to Dehli to see 'their' recommended Doctor....Obviously no idea what travel in India is about or appreciation of the seriousness of the condition.

They were told where we are at, and that it is a strictly cash only process, no credit cards.   Hopefully their people will talk to the hospital people at Brij Lal, and sort something out, lest the ATM be maxed every day, and I'd rather not have to name the insurer.  Maybe it will be named.  

Spoiled rotten

Whilst by Australian standards it is not exorbitantly expensive, everything has to be purchased at the pharmacy,with cash, and brought by the patient to the room, some of the antibiotics are very expensive too.  But obviously we would pay whatever it takes.  I get the impression however that money would not be a problem if cash access was an issue, so generous and giving the people of the Mata Gaytria  Pariwar foundation are, and Ajay seems to know someone everywhere.  

We have have more visitors than the golden temple (or so it seems) every one of the visitors having a look at the leg, medical and non medical alike, and are genuinely concerned that we had had this happen to us in their country.  The visitors, especially Doctor Gupta, has provided meals, kind thoughts and a genuine caring.   The major benefactor of the foundation, All World Gayatri Pariwar, also visited.  This man donated the land that the Monseri Temple that is to built upon.  He found out that we were here through the grape vine. 

The room or suite is two rooms, the ante room designed for family gatherings and for family to sleep, the main room is quite basic, but functional.

As the only westerners on site, we have been visited by what seems to be nearly every doctor and nurse in the place. Including the gaggle of nursing students who go around in flocks of six or seven.

Please be assured that we are (relatively) in the best place possible,the medical care is different to our expectations but still top notch, and according to our best advice back home medication is as should be.  At this stage it seems the diagnosis is cellulitis, with necrotising fasciitis.  There is no way we can leave here under a week, as the course of ab have to run their course swelling reduced and NJC be able to travel. Hey we might even spend an extended holiday here.... Lovely as the people Are, hopefully not.    As far as being protected, we could not be in better hands with Suyra's mum running interference,and being the mamma.  Upon our very strong insistence, Ajay has gone to the Temple for a few days..... We're not going anywhere but Kisnkinda was vehement that she would stay.  

I know you all want to provide best wishes and thoughts and thank you.  Our children and parents have been advised.   There is nothing that can be done other than what is happening, it is in the hands of our insurers and the doctors here.  Be mindful that bandwidth is limited and wi fi unknown.  All communications will be through data hot spot on phone.  Very limited.

Will update as we can and love youse all....

Ganges and bathing therein- next blog very important- please read for update there has been a problem

Friday 

Bit of a lazy morning, up at 5 am for the Yagev, then caught up on some housekeeping until a bit later in the day....Ajay catching up on his paperwork.

Later went to another Mother Earth temple, this one six stories high, and on each floor a number if the deities and Indian heroes.   Somewhat blasphemously, we, especially. Nathalie, was more of a focus for the people.  If we were to charge 100 rupees and give it to the University for each photo, it'd be a good earner.

Then another highlight. Bathing in the Ganges.   This far up the Ganges, or Ganga, the water is quite fast flowingm many large rapids, and a multitude of large islands cut the river into many steams.  The water here is also relatively cold: 23-25 deg. And it is relatively clean.  Swim and duck under the water...yes, rinse mout out...maybe not.

So that's what was done, with my two Indian cousins, we bathed. And everyone changing on the banks. 

Bathing in the Ganga at Haridwar 

Then via Suyra's motorcycle. We were returned to the guesthouse, and after a genuine Lassie (drink not dog) .

A gift from our hosts

Saturday 

This is a big day in the university, it is as best we can work out the commencement of the University year, but also the celebration of the founder Kulpita and his wife Kulmata, who have been somewhat deified as very learned, wise, and the founder of this All World Gayatri Pariwar, which is the core of the university.

Usually 3-4 thousand people in total on site during year, now there is 20,000 from all parts of India.

The university has every available space used as free sleeping area classrooms,offices, halls, verandas etc.  they also will feed three times a day in Langar style, all of these people.

Never really sure what we are going to be doing.....it is clear that Ajay is respected on the Campus, he says you follow, we do.     

I think it is because we are guests for the pro vice chancellor, that a few words and we are pushed to the front of a line, the front row of a hall, and the number of people we have met is amazing.  

Pushed through a crowd to a gate, admitted to find us in the front row of a huge open hall full of sitting followers,  and flowing out into the adjoining open areas.  Maybe 10,000 people.  Indian music and singing happening, 10 musicians on stage, and the chancellor Dr Padaya and his wife sitting on the stage.  And they happily moved to make room.   We had seen people crowding in this area an hour previous.     It is a little bit embarrassing.   My Hindi is a little bit rusty, but the gist of the 30 minute talk was about being good to each other, don't push your luck, and the launching of the 2015 Calander, and several publications.

After that, and being introduced to professors, managers and other important people, once again we are pushed, through a back door this time, to another line.   This line however was the longest one I have ever seen. Probably wound around the campus for a km at least.

 Imagine the AFL was giving out all free Grand Final tickets, and it is an Essendon v Collingwood match....BUT...there is only one window open.....then a foreigner gets put into the line four from the front....would not go down well...here- not a murmur....but we are helpless to object.

Then we realise we are back in the audience hall and meeting Dr Pandya again.   Once again he has a presence about him.

Meeting Dr Pandya, and the front row at the oration.

After this we were returned to the Guesthouse, where we were given time to have some quiet time.  Much appreciated as we had already done a full day by then.

Then into Haridwar proper. As this is a full moon and the guru Poya festival, and the month is dedicated to a local Hindu deity, it was very very busy...the Ganges here, down stream of where we bathed yesterday, is a fuller river, but not at all enticing, but how could the 50,000 Indians bathing here be wrong.....putting our feet in, was enough.

The crowds...Oh the humanity....

There were thousands of people filling bottles with Ganges water, and several hundred Tim Minchen look a likes......but these were the real thing...real Holy Men, who may have walked hundreds of kms to get here.  Quite scary really.  Like  something out of Monty Python, but real.

Some more of the crowd

The whole bank of the river is one big set of bathing steps, and it is a serious no shoe zone, with security aggressively enforcing.   Very bezerk, in an Indian way, once again out hosts were marvellous, and ensured we saw whatever we wanted, and some....they remind us very much of us....they are very funny.   

Then back to the Ganga, where ABC swam yesterday, and it was hot enough for NJC to embible as well.   The water snake worried her a bit,  but what are the odds of a white Australian Woman, getting fatally bitten by a water snake in the Ganga?......I'd take your money.  It was very refreshing.

Dev Sanskriti University. Haridwar - day two.

Bandwidth very tight not spotting via phone so only one photo attached....will repost with photos once we have wi if again.....

Surya's dad. Ajay, is a civil engineer, and has in this trade provided many years of voluntary service to the University and the foundation which supports it.  One of his projects at the moment, is building a Temple at a place called Monsiere(sp?), the best we can work out is that it is three villages shy of the Chinese border, and near the border of Nepal, well and truely within the Himalayas. It is at best 14 hours travel by road from here.  Being aware of our want of different travel processes, asked if we would want to visit...he was very clear that it was not fancy, it was a long way, and no five star journey.  

Thought about if for about no seconds, and accepted.

What this means is that we will have to 'sacrifice' all up, about eight days of other travels in India, but that's no issue.

After Yagev, which is the morning Hindu prayer ceremony, which we attended we were taken to visit a number of people, the most impressive was Dr Pranav Pandya who is not only the Honourary Chancellor of the university, but the head of All World Gayatri Pariwar....which has more than (only) ninety million followers world wide..he is revered here as a wise and spiritual man.   There was a line of about 100 people waiting to see him.      Initially we had to write our names and place or origin which was given to a secretary.  Security was pretty tight, relatively speaking, I would not have argued with the gent with the ancient .410 single barrelled shotgun. We wre all lined up, and then our hosts, Ajay, his wife Kithkinda, and Suyra's cousin Xxxxxx were pulled out of the line and ushered into an audience room.  This was becoming the norm, and to object would have been more discourteous.

It is clear that Dr Pandya Is revered, and there were people bowing at his feet, and he had an amazing presence.   We were introduced to the Doctor and his wife, sitting on two chairs, somewhat sitting in state and were asked about how long we had been in India, what our work was, and what we intended to do. He asked if our families were well, and were blessed.  It was quite awkward as we weren't sure what we were expected to do, so we just sat on the ground.  At the conclusion, were given some small sweets, and a packet of blessed head dot powder.  Apparently part of the visit was also to seek the Doctor's permission for us to travel with Ajay to Monsiere, which was granted.

Imagine a very long line of people

A line passing us by

We were then introduced to a number of other important people on the Campus the international director, the Estate manager (Ajays boss) then back to the canteen for some breakfast.  Once we got back to our guesthouse, we were again expected to eat breakfast.

With Ajay, his wife and cousin, we went a-touring.  The mountains about 70 ks from the university rises to about 6000 ft, and it was appreciably cooler, to a place called Monsoorie, perched on the side of what  is a very unstable mountain, so much so, that a landslide last year, caused tens of thousands of deaths.  Travelling with an engineer makes for different perspectives.  

Imagine a windy road

Highway. 58, near Monsoorie

Then to Kemptie, a big waterfall system, initially famously in the Colonial times for the place where the British camped for tea.  It is like one continuous waterpark, swimming, arcades, many, many, many shops offering for people to dress up as Cossacks, kings queens, milk maids, with either a real or painted waterfall backdrop....quite busy.   The roads up there were quite good, the driver we had was excellent,  and the traffic.....welll, nowhere near as frantic as Amritsar, but it is India.

Suyra's Dad and Mum at Kemptie Falls. Top pools

Just imagine

At least he's wearing bathers.

Suyra's cousin...not ABC

Kemptie Falls...bottom pools.

At the lunch stop

On the way back we made a stop at Rishikesh, on the banks of the Ganges, but were too late for the last ferry, so just wandered, and at dusk put a toe in the Ganges, which, here runs very fast, cold and realively clean..althought don't think I'd drink it.  

Ganges at dusk Rishikesh. And Andrew got himself one of those boy tops 'kuta' still aiming for a dojti.  NJC wearing ABCs elephant (print) pants.

Then it was dark, pretty scary on the roads, back to the main campus, staff dining room for more food, then to bed by ten...huge day...up at five tomorrow.

Now, if we get lost.....we will not be far from Ajay, who is Suyra dad.....May be off line for as long as a week as of Sunday....so do not worry

Amritsar to Haridwar. ( Hari-dwar, Hari-dwar, Hari-dwar)

After almost no sleep, the excitement I suppose, we're on the train to Haridwar.

Been to quite a few places in the past six years, Singapore, Cambodia, Frankston,Laos, Vietnam, Brunei, Malaysia, North Dandenong, Thailand, Sri Lanka, Indonesia, and now India.  Amritsar is a stand-out place.   

In a frantic theatrical way, it is a very spiritual place, obviously with the Sikh Holiest place the Golden Temple, being the highlight.  There have not been too many sights that we have been back to three times, in three days.  Even the free feeds didn't sway the decision.

An apparent hang over from British rule, is the paperwork required every time anything needs doing....being guests of the Indian government it would be churlish to be grumpy about the time spent, however after a long day of travel, and a his and hers registration forms...etc etc.  .oiyvey...   

Whilst we pride ourselves on being independent travellers the trip so far has been astounding for the warmth and hospitality of our hosts, as arranged by our yogi Suyra.

The train journey from Amritsar, six hours, was un eventful and relatively stress fre, as we acclimatise to India Rail.  The Sikh conductors on this line wear brown turbans.....just to confuse me.

Now brave enough to jump off the train at a two minute stop to get breakfast snacks...Some advice if you ever visit India...don't lie on the railway tracks in India..especially when a train is crossing over you...the toilets dump onto the tracks.

We were met at the Haridwar Railway station by Surya's dad, Ajay a distinguished gentleman, in local garb, bundled us into taxi, out of the heat and through the town.  Haridwar is a very holy place for the Hindu, is situated on the mid upper reaches of the Ganga, or as we know it, the Ganges.   We think we have seen big rivers in Australia......nothing like this, it is, in several tributaries, huge.

We were taken to the Dev Sanskriti University where Surya did his Health and Yoga science degree.  This is also where Suyra's dad donated much time as a civil engineer, to the building program, that he has a residence on site, and we are guests of the Pro VIce Chancellor, and given a suite, in the Chanellors guest house.   It is very impressive in a basic way.  Way better than we would have chosen for ourselves and are very thankful.

After registering with all the paperwork at the Pro Vice Chancellor's office we were given refreshments and then after a tour of the campus, we were welcomed by Dr Chimay Pandya, who was a very engaging and impressive man he also gave us a brief run down on the history of both the All world Gayatri Pariwar and the University that rose from it.  The former organisation nas ninety million followers world wide and the basis is a moral spiritual ethos, irregardless of ones faith ethnicity etc. it also supplies free medical and social assistance, including disaster relief, when required anywhere in India. The University is based on the theory that science without spirituality is destined for trouble, so every student of the university undertakes to provide three months of free service to the community at the conclusion of their course.    Whilst there is a fee structure, it is heavily subsidised by the former organisation, and will provide for free if required....look it up on the internetty thing

A tour of both campus of 600 acres, was clean tidy, quiet peaceful and amazingly respectful of the teachers and Ajay seemed to know everybody.  The campus is self sufficient in dairy, vegetables, water, some paper supplies,  has a what is presumed to be a "disabled industries", as well as teaching trades such as dairy farming, weaving, clothes making and other cottage industries.

There is also a large industry in at-cost Auvedic medicines(herbal medicines of the Hindu/ Indian ilk) a large acupressure walk.....large sumat best described as a very big sundial.  It has up to three thousand students over the two campus.

We then had tea at the canteen, and to bed

Bandwidth is pretty light on here, so I have not added any pictures.

The next blog will include our next day 5 am Yagev service, a meeting with the Chancellor, and several other important people on campus, two breakfasts, visit to Monsoorie( and a public swim in a waterfall ) Risakesh (supposed to be the world headquarters of yoga) on the bank of the Ganges. And plans to travel to a place called Monseri, three villages short of the Chinese border, near Nepal....stay tuned....

BTW. There was a listener question as to why the border guards hats were orange.. Apparently it is just because it is one of the colours on the Indian Flag.

Golden Temple, part two- and another adventure of the hirsute kind

Decided to visit the Golden Temple again....it's just that sort of place.   Crowd much smaller but still in the tens of thousands.    This gave us an opportunity to actually get into the central Temple.  Only had to line up for half an hour.  The best we can work out is that the center of attention in the Holy Scripture .  The inner palace actually has golden plating on the walls, parapets, and the cupolas.  The mosaic work and frescoes are amazingly detailed and beautiful, but inside and not respectful  to take photos.

It's real gold.....

Just sat and watched the crowd go past and on no less than five times were we welcomed, hands shaken and blessed by different people.  And the photo opportunities too......

It was intended to be a photo of just Natahlie and ABC...but it is India. And ABC is not the only one wearing the safety orange hat.

The Sikhs have the Five Ks of their religion, long hair, combed twice daily, a Kirpan,kuchera which is an under/outer wear like draw string bloomers, and an iron bracelett.  All of which have significance.  The Kirpan, we discover, is only used in self defence, and defence of those in need of help..sounds familiar, and must always be ready.  The undies are always to be worn to show that they always are ready with no hesitation to defend their faith, to the extent of one foot out of old, and one foot in new kuchera.  They believe in the oneness of god, and that all religions have their place.Anyway...you can wiki all that stuff.

One of the thousands of sleeping Pilgrims, this gent showing his readiness to defend.

Many of the pilgrims are very aged, and some quite unwell....no stats we could find, but there would probably be quite a few who choose to take their last here.

Then the food Hall.

One of the other strict traditions of Sikhism, is the Langar or community kitchens which, for no charge , feeds all the pilgrims heading towards and at the Golden Temple.  

The concept of Langar is that all who come, irregardless of your origin or station in life, sit in a row and are served equally.  

The langer after our shift had left

 So...with several thousand other pilgrims, we walked in, were handed a segmented metal plate, a spoon and a bowl, and directed into a huge hall, where we were told to sit.  

Handing out the trays

The chapatti  flinger....

Some of the crowd

Yep..be jealous

Trays on ground and servers ( all men) with big buckets of food , including dhal, potato curry, rice,were distributed by big ladles, then chapattis were distributed by being thrown in a polite way, and huge tea pots served the water.  Sorry Rod, no Vegimite.

Not one of these people are paid, it is all volunteer, and donations. It is what is known as Sawar, or voluntary work.  Then desert was a type of sugary potato pumpkin mix.   

Foreground garlic prep, background  ONE of the piles of pumpkins.

One of the amazing things here was the noise...those metal plates do not get emptied, cleaned, stacked or distributed quietly....it put the street noise to shame.

At no time did we feel anything less than absolutely welcome.....and on the way out made an appropriate donation.. Hey!   We got a receipt...NJC suggested we must see what Rob ( the accountant) can do with that.....

Now for the washing up...we estimate about a thousand trays here...and there were many more of these..ain't no dishwashing machines here...all by hand.

The Sikh history museum, was on the way out, and it was a very gruesome telling, basically of the Sikh martyrs....and the horrible way they died, right up to the '80s, where 30 Sikhs, on a prison bus, travelling from a police court, were hit by a train....complete with pm photos.   It does show the way the Sikhs have stuck strongly to their beliefs, against at times, horrendous persecution.  But don't take the kiddies there.

The haircut..part two.

Nathalie, not being entirely happy with the Delhi hair cut (well not happy with the way ABC can not comb it) decide to get a hair cut and shave.   

Stae of the art equipment- but a fresh blade was used

Bit short on the side ..but for $4.00...

Could have charged admission-note the five of many spectators. 

Before the temple went to a cafe and had some breakfast.  The next people who walked were a couple, from Leiscester, UK. It so happens he is a plod from that part of the world and she a teacher.  Comparing conditions of employment...I think we do pretty well.  He has been to Melbourne, and will be seriously thinking about emigrating, especially when we get twice the leave, twice the pay, and guns as well....who hoo!  

 Siesta then plan to do the Golden Temple at night...we will see....

Surprisingly back to the Golden Temple area, because that is where the best street food is.  ABC now BSC 5, so after no ill effects of the Langar, street food is on the cards again.  Still beastly hot even at 8.00pm.  Tea consisted of Palo Tika

$1.10

And gulab Gulabi.(sp?)

..basically all sugar.   (About $2.00 )

Caught up with Avi once more and had a iced coffee with him.   He has been a great help to us in Amritsar.

Then the closing ceremony at the Golden Temple. Which is when the Holy Scripture is moved from its place of daily repose to its bedroom.   Most reverently done.  Much singing, changing and music. 

The paliquin for the Holy Scripture

Then based on advice from Avi, we returned to the Langar, where we were invited into the Automated Chapatti Device (ACD), even hot than the daytime, and smiling people, making about 80 chapattis a minute.

The happy volunteers, more so because there was some interest in what they were doing.

The cleaning up part of the kitchen kitchen did remind me of a battery farm though.

That's all really for this post.  Past midnight 5:30 start today..see ya.

India Pakistan Border. The novelty factor continues.

This morning decided to get out and about a bit earlier, before the oven, that is Amritsar, in the middle of summer, kicks in.   

We were approached immediately by the tuk-tuk driver from yesterday, who wanted to charge twice the going rate for a ride to Ghandi (Pronounced gaaaandi)Gate, as we were negotiating a cyclo rider offered the same distance for half the going rate.  Of course, we exploited the poor man and the two fat westerners were being cycled around by on old man on a bicycle.

The exploited worker class

What was really disappointing was the expectation that the westerners were expected to get off and walk when travelling up the steep railway bridge incline.   Sixty six percent of the load got off and pushed.  The remaining 34%, like a queen, that she of course is, remained on the carriage.

She's loving it.

The final outcome, was Natahlie swearing she would nevertheless ride on one of those again, and we gave the cyclo driver twice what he asked for.  Salve for a guilty mind?

We walked through the Old city, back towards the Golden Palace, but diverging into Jallianwala Bagh or memorial park Which is where, in 1919 a British officer ordered his soldiers to shoot on unarmed protesters. Four hundred men, women and children died and 1100 more were injured this day.  Some of the bullet holes are still visible in the walls, as is the well into which hundreds jumped into to avoid the bullets, and died there instead.

It  was one of the main focus of Nehru's and Ghandi's push for independence of India, not to come for another forty years.  One of the men, Singh,  who was a water server for the crowd, having seen the carnage, waited twenty years, to assisinate the governor of the Punjab,  Sir Michael O'Dwyer Minister for India, in London in the '40s.

We are beginning to know what it must be like to be Nicole Kidman or Graeme Connors (go look him up)' as whilst we were at this park, at least twenty times we, more particularly the blonde one,was asked to be in family pics.

The short one is not Andrew.

Anyway the pressure was taken from us by the appearance of two Buddhist monks, so we could slip away, just kicking ourselves that we did not get our photos taken with them.

The mandatory Andrew and local Plod photo ....they love the Freddy...the officer's name was Singh.  ABC has the Golden Temple head scarf on.

At the Pakistan border.  Well the bus stop anyway.

Siesta time, and then we were collected by our driver a full hour earlier than expected. So we arrived quite early, but were quickly touted to a shaded area near a food stand by John and his older brother Don (not their real names, but the ones they gave us), where onion Baji was the fare..and lots of water.

It was very hot...so the respite was appreciated.  Then the first set of gates opened, foreigners and VIPs one side, and the seething ( but happily so) Indian ( Asian not American) masses the right side.

Then it was to the security checkpoint,  where we were made to stand in the very very hot sun, for a running of the bulls type process to get past the local VIPs.  You see, the VIPs had written passes for the whole family, but with women on one side men on the other the delay was matching the paperwork with the people of various genders.  It started to get a bit 'heated' if that was possible.   The richer class in India seem to have a far greater sense of entitlement and disdain for obstacles than we would see in our world.   

Seeing a semi distressed white fellow, waving a passport to prove I was a foreigner, and because the border guard was fed up with the uppity family in front of us,  waved me through to the pat down.  

No bags, guns, knives or explosives were permitted.

On the Indian side of the border there are huge grandstands on each side of the road, VIPs closest to the gate, foreigners next,  then the common folk.   

Nathalie is the one on the right- 

The crowd control was suburb.  As you can see above, as an example, all the border guards are of large frame, definite presence, and quite intimidating.  Their dress is immaculate and there is no denying their physique, indicated when the ceremony began.   When they ask you to do something, you do it....immediately.  

Not real good at estimating crowds, but probably half a grand final crowd of locals and maybe 200 foreigners, of which, there would have been 20-30 melting Caucasians.  Directed to sit on a very hot concrete step, the water vendors did a roaring trade, at double the normal price, but we weren't about to dicker.   Two and a half litres of fluid later the ceremony started.

In essence it is a theatrical production of 'thumbing your nose' at the Pakistan side of the border.  Other than the size of the crowd, it's run basically the same on the Pakistan side.  It reminds me of the Maori Hakka, where visual and bodily intimidation is used.

There was a competition of patriotic music from each side, chosen Indians get a chance to run holding an Indian flag to the gate.  Then there was mass dancing of the women to patriotic music.   The crowd being wound up, by the MC.

Then the soldiers, two by two march to the gate, in a goose stepping manner, but very fast and every so often the leg touches the forehead.   Check out the YouTube videos....that's what it's like  amazing, colourful.   The flag was lowered, the gate closed, and the soldiers marched back.

Probably a quarter of the crowd

It has got to hurt...which is probably why we saw then limbering up before hand

Nathalie seemed to like this view?..

Flag lowering...

If I can work out a way of loading videos on to Blogger, we have some awesome ones to add.

The locals photographing, the foreigners photographing the locals

The driver we had today, was an anomaly, he was surly, made no attempt at communication, didn't want to be there,was unhelpful and subject to further enquiries, he may have rorted us by getting us there two hours too early.  Sixty kph on the way there, 80 on the way back??

Back to the Shiraz Continental, for the third shower of the day, out for tea ther other side of Queens road, crossing which is truly frightening, and took at least three minutes to find a 'gap'.  It's not like other places where the drivers will try to miss you...it is scary..so far so good.

Back to hotel for fourth shower, and bedie byes.